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Triple 7 Racing  |  General  |  Guides & Help  |  Momo maintenance and repairs « previous next »
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Author Topic: Momo maintenance and repairs  (Read 4777 times)
sparkydave
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« on: November 14, 2005, 09:00:02 pm »
The logitech momo wheels are very popular with PC racers and seem to be great products until somthing goes wrong with them. most problems are reasonably easy to fix and there are some great guides out there like Mozzo's one here
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/  

However I thought I would try to write a short guide on fully rewiring the "wheel to pedal cables" as this is where some have problems with very thin cores in the original logitech cable becoming damaged and broken and even problems with the 25 pin connector.

I will post a step by step guide on how I rewired my wheel in a follow up post (hopefully with pictures) ,but for now I am just including some basic cable colour codes and a pinout I have made.

the cable that connects to the wheel with a DB25 pin connector contains : the main power for the wheel , the digital USB cables and the analog pedal data cables and are as follows.

USB CABLE COLOURS

Red = V                                          pin 1
White = D-                                      pin 2
Green = D+                                    pin 3
Black = Ground                               pin 4

WHEEL POWER COLOURS

Pink = Wheel power 24v                  pins 5&6
Grey = Wheel power 24v                 pins 7&8


PEDAL CABLE COLOURS

Brown = R2 (gas + Break)               pin 9
Blue = R1 (gas + Break)                  pin 10
Yellow = Break Center                     pin 22
Orange = Gas Center                      pin 23


pinout image below


I hope this info may be of some use to anyone who is thinking of a DIY rewire
more to follow .

SD.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2009, 10:20:07 pm by sparkydave » Logged
T7R|SparkyDave - Triple7Racing - Live For Speed
Gopher04
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« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2005, 07:47:12 am »
Here's another tip for the Momo FF Red, once you get the steering pot out, bite the little ball on the end which looks like a splitshot from fishing, close the gap so its nice and even and whooo no more shake and spiking again, plus you save yourself dosh from importing a new one..And always make sure your FF motor is secured nice and tight, they have a habbit of shaking themselfs loose..
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P1LOT
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2005, 12:29:42 pm »
Yep, I've done plenty of those fixes by Mozo before.

Many times I've got spiking on the accelerator pedal, taken the pedals apart and done a general clean-up/regrease - applied tape on pivot to stop movement.

Later, when this did not solve pedal spiking, I took the actual pot apart (as shown in the picture). Cleaned the resistive surface of the pot (with paint bursh cleaner and a cotton bud) and it made it better than new... for 6 months.
I cut off the little blue plastic welds that hold the black case on, this allowed me to get inside. The black case went back on and held itself good enough without the need to glue.


Another one; I got double downshifts on the left paddle switch, took the steering wheel apart (48 screws) and resoldered the microswitch onto the board to correct that.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2005, 12:30:38 pm by P1LOT » Logged
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Gopher04
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« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2005, 01:32:50 pm »
Tell you what Gav, we have been saying our pots are different, but not by much, very similier indeed, if that ball on the end of yours looks like a splitshot, bite it so the gap stays even, that cures mine..
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Fordman
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« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2005, 05:56:28 pm »
Also, another tip.  The bit in where that little ball sits, shove some blue tack down there, filling the hole.  Then push the ball of the pot in it  lol Hay look mum, its doesn't move, and hasn't for months now  cool

@Gav - Your website doesn't work  Shocked  
« Last Edit: November 15, 2005, 06:00:56 pm by Fordman » Logged
P1LOT
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2005, 07:04:18 pm »
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@Gav - Your website doesn't work  Shocked
Don't worry. It's planned maintenance and someone's on the case Smiley

Another great tip; get Fordman to bring you back replacement pots from one of his trips to the States Cheesy
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sparkydave
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« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2005, 07:56:20 pm »
the pots in my red momo pedals are different looking metal pots to those flashy new plastic ones  see pic,

I know the plastic ones shown above by P1lot are also in most of the black momo pedals and possably in the DFP pedals too .

SD.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2009, 10:22:52 pm by sparkydave » Logged
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three_jump
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« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2005, 08:58:10 pm »
have the same pots as dave in my dfp
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Gopher04
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« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2005, 09:46:04 pm »
Wonder if the bluetak will work on the steering pot as well.. smiley  
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Fordman
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« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2005, 11:40:44 pm »
Good Idea Mark, might try that
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Joey
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« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2009, 07:55:27 am »
Quote from: sparkydave on November 14, 2005, 09:00:02 pm
The logitech momo wheels are very popular with PC racers and seem to be great products until somthing goes wrong with them. most problems are reasonably easy to fix and there are some great guides out there like Mozzo's one here
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/  

However I thought I would try to write a short guide on fully rewiring the "wheel to pedal cables" as this is where some have problems with very thin cores in the original logitech cable becoming damaged and broken and even problems with the 25 pin connector.

I will post a step by step guide on how I rewired my wheel in a follow up post (hopefully with pictures) ,but for now I am just including some basic cable colour codes and a pinout I have made.

the cable that connects to the wheel with a DB25 pin connector contains : the main power for the wheel , the digital USB cables and the analog pedal data cables and are as follows.

USB CABLE COLOURS

Red = V                                          pin 1
White = D-                                      pin 2
Green = D+                                    pin 3
Black = Ground                               pin 4

WHEEL POWER COLOURS

Pink = Wheel power 24v                  pins 5&6
Grey = Wheel power 24v                 pins 7&8


PEDAL CABLE COLOURS

Brown = R2 (gas + Break)               pin 9
Blue = R1 (gas + Break)                  pin 10
Yellow = Break Center                     pin 22
Orange = Gas Center                      pin 23


heres the pinout image:


I hope this info may be of some use to anyone who is thinking of a DIY rewire
more to follow .

SD.

Thanks for the guide, it has come in handy, but unfortunately my biggest problem is that I need a wiring diagram for the seven pin connector plug that runs from the pedals to the main unit, I had a fault and in trying to get the plastic cover off have lost all track of what wires go where to the plug, if yourself or anyone else could help out here, that would be awsomely apreciated.
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sparkydave
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« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2009, 10:11:07 am »
Hi Joey

Its been a while since I used that momo wheel, I don't remember a 7 pin connector on mine, only a 25 pin one.

Can you confirm what make, and exact model of wheel you are having problems with, maybe one of us could help.

SD.
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Joey
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« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2009, 06:35:27 am »
Quote from: sparkydave on February 18, 2009, 10:11:07 am
Hi Joey

Its been a while since I used that momo wheel, I don't remember a 7 pin connector on mine, only a 25 pin one.

Can you confirm what make, and exact model of wheel you are having problems with, maybe one of us could help.

SD.



Thanks for the reply,
Its a Logitech Momo Racing force feed back wheel, with the black rubber steering wheel with the red rally style anodized marker at the top of the wheel. Sorry I don't know much more about it, I am ceartan it is a 7 pin plug though.
It was pretty impossible to get the plastic off the back of the plug without taking the wires off unfortunately.
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sparkydave
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« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2009, 02:03:37 am »
Ahh yes the old trusty "black momo" Smiley I dont have one to test for you at the moment, but I do know where there is one I should be able to get my hands on, not sure of the timescale, it might take me a couple weeks before I can get it.

As soon as I can get it Ill let you know the pinout for that plug.

In the meantime can you post a nice size pic, or list of the colour wires you have IIRC you should have black green white and red, and maybe a ground shield.

Did you take it to peices because it was broken? are you sure its the plug and not the socket?

I hope to have some help for you soon.

SD.
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Joey
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« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2009, 04:58:59 am »
Quote from: sparkydave on February 20, 2009, 02:03:37 am
Ahh yes the old trusty "black momo" Smiley I dont have one to test for you at the moment, but I do know where there is one I should be able to get my hands on, not sure of the timescale, it might take me a couple weeks before I can get it.

As soon as I can get it Ill let you know the pinout for that plug.

In the meantime can you post a nice size pic, or list of the colour wires you have IIRC you should have black green white and red, and maybe a ground shield.

Did you take it to peices because it was broken? are you sure its the plug and not the socket?

I hope to have some help for you soon.

SD.
I found a lead in the plug to be broken, the red wire which was loose for months and finally let go  evil. and its red black green white. It was just how it went with the plastic surround on the plug which made it impossible to reach the back of the plug, all in all I could have done some better decision making to not put myself in this situation...
I really apreciate your help mate and I dont mind being patient!
It has just been an annoying situation because it is still a quality bit of gear and works great with all the millions of practice laps I do on rFactor.
Thanks mate.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2009, 05:09:50 am by Joey » Logged
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